When comparing insurance quotes, you’ll often be given the option to add on what is known as “ancillaries” that provide additional cover to the standard third-party/ comprehensive/ multi-car policy that you pick. These extras are both general and more specific so that you can pick and choose the types of cover that you think you could need, depending on your lifestyle, the kinds of journeys you make, where you leave your car parked at night etc. Below, we will outline what each extra is and what kinds of situations they cover:

Breakdown Cover

Having breakdown cover will guarantee that in the event of a breakdown, you will be able to get roadside assistance and not be stranded. Few insurers will include breakdown cover as part of their policies and so usually it will have to be added on or purchased separately from another provider – therefore it’s a good idea to have a look around for different deals before you add it on. You should also take into account that the level of breakdown cover provided will vary between insurance providers and so ensure that you are getting the right cover to suit your needs. Breakdown cover will usually fall into these categories:

Windscreen Cover

Windscreen cover will allow you to recover the costs of any repairs to your windscreen as a result of chips or cracks, or even the cost of an entire windscreen replacement if necessary. Even though it is called “windscreen” cover, it will often cover any other windows in your car and sometimes sunroofs too. The majority of comprehensive car insurance policies will already include windscreen cover and you might have to pay an excess, although this will vary from policy to policy.

Legal Cover

Legal cover provides you with financial protection against any costs you may incur from making a claim against another driver, or another driver making a claim against you in the event of an accident. Legal cover might be included in some policies but not always and is usually capped at a value of £50,000 (although you should check this with your insurer). Legal Cover can provide protection against the following uninsured losses:

Driving abroad / Green card

Most UK car insurance policies will cover you by the minimum compulsory requirement for driving in any other EU countries although this usually won’t include things like theft and fire damage. With regards to Britain’s departure from the European Union this year, it is not yet known what effect this might have on car insurance policies covering UK motorists in Europe, so if you have a trip planned it is best to contact your insurer about any questions you have. It has been widely speculated that in the event of a no-deal, UK drivers will need to be in possession of a green card if they are going to be driving in the EU, which proves that your policy provides the minimum, third party cover. These are free to acquire, so it is worth getting one just in case. Read more about the effects of Brexit on the car industry and UK car drivers in our blog post here.

Personal Effects Cover

The majority of comprehensive policies will include cover for any personal belongings inside your vehicle that are damaged in an accident or stolen from your car. This kind of cover is much less common with third party, fire and theft policies. Depending on your insurer and the policy, the value of items that will be covered can vary anywhere between £50 and £500. Bear in mind that many insurers will include certain clauses that mean that you might not always be able to claim, such as there must be signs of forced entry and items must be stowed away in the glove box or boot, not left in plain view. Because there are a number of limits and exclusions on Personal Effects Cover for car insurance, many people will choose to cover their personal belongings through Home Contents insurance instead, which itself will have an option to cover personal possessions outside of the home (i.e. in your car).

When it comes to getting cover for your in-car stereo and sat nav equipment, most insurers will treat factory fitted systems differently to separately installed systems so you need to disclose this to them. Non-manufacturer equipment is usually considered to be a modification and therefore you may experience higher premiums as a result.

Lost/stolen keys

Replacement key cover is included as a standard part of some insurance policies but not all and the level of cover available will vary between policies and insurers. Most of the time you will not have to pay an excess when you make a claim for lost or stolen keys and it usually won’t affect your no claims bonus either. Usually, you will be able to recover any costs relating to lost, stolen or broken keys up to a value of £1500 and some policies will even cover the cost of a hire car and transference of your vehicle if you are left without your keys far away from home.

Uninsured driver protection

Uninsured Driver Protection will cover you in the event that you are in an accident with an uninsured driver so that you won’t have to pay an insurance excess, lose your no claims bonus and in some cases, pay for repairs to your car yourself. In order to claim, you will have to provide the details of the uninsured vehicle as well as adequate proof that the accident was not your fault.

Personal Accident Cover

Personal accident and injury cover on car insurance is in place to provide compensation in the event of death or significant injury as a result of being in a car accident when you are unable to claim from a third party. Each policy will specify the kinds of injuries that are covered and compensation is usually capped at a maximum of £5000. Various policies will also have certain clauses and exclusions, for example, sometimes only the driver and his/her spouse will be covered and some policies will even exclude older people over a certain age.

There are a variety of different extras on offer so it’s important to conduct thorough research before deciding whether to add any on. Some are more useful than others and it really depends on your specific requirements, i.e. there’s no need to add on European cover if you don’t plan to be driving abroad within the next year! On the other hand, breakdowns can happen to almost anybody at any time due to a number of various problems, so with extras like breakdown cover, it is definitely a case of being safe than sorry.

In the UK, it is a well-known fact that there is a pothole epidemic on our roads. A combination of traffic, wet weather and cold temperatures are the main cause of the craters on the tarmac, which means that the winter months are when potholes become worse and much more common. In last October’s budget, the government promised that £420million would be given to local councils in England to deal with “potholes, repair damaged roads, and invest in keeping bridges open and safe” however many are saying that this is not an adequate sum of money, with the estimated repair cost for all of the potholes in England, being well into the billions. To make matters worse, it is not just our roads that are being damaged; an estimated 1 in 10 mechanical faults in cars are caused by potholes and it is costing motorists around £730 million every year in repairs. In this article, we will be looking at:

What kind of problems can potholes cause your car?

Tyres

As the main point of contact between the road and your vehicle, your car’s tyres will take on much of the impact felt as your car drives over an uneven patch of the road. As your tyre enters into a pothole, the distribution of the car’s weight is shifted slightly and more pressure is placed onto the one tire that makes direct contact with the pothole. The same thing happens again when the tyre leaves the pothole and as the edge of the crater strikes your tyre on exit, the force can cause a rupture, bulges or bubbles, misshape your tyre or even cause the rims to bend. The depth and severity of the pothole as well as the angle and speed at which your car hits it, will all affect the degree of damage to your tyres. However, it goes without saying that the more times you drive over a pothole, the more likely you are to experience these problems.

Suspension and Wheel Alignment

Your car’s suspension is designed to absorb the impact of driving and increase the smoothness of your ride however potholes can cause your cars tracking to become disrupted and your wheels alignment to be knocked off kilter. The result of this can be uneven tyre wear, car drifting to one side, a skewed steering wheel and vibration or a screeching or squeaking noise coming from your tyres. What’s more, your car will become less fuel-efficient and you could end up paying more to get your tyres replaced more often. Correct wheel alignment is not only necessary for the condition of your tyres, but it is essential for safety on the roads – you do not want to be veering into oncoming traffic, experience a blowout in one of your tyres as you are driving along or be unable to move swiftly out of the way of an emergency.

Exhaust

In the majority of cars, exhaust pipes will run along the underside of the car putting them in prime position for contact with pothole edges. Particularly severe potholes can cause the undercarriage of your car to scrape along the tarmac, which can result in denting or holes in exhaust pipes, mufflers or catalytic converters. A hole in your cars exhausts system may produce noticeable noises, reduce the power of the car or even allow harmful exhaust fumes to enter into the cabin and expose you and your passengers to a dangerous health hazard. A damaged catalytic converter can also mean that your cars exhaust fumes have not been filtered properly and your car is pumping excessive amounts of harmful pollution into the atmosphere.

Body

Cars that are particularly low on the ground such as performance and sports cars are also at risk of experience body damage as a result of potholes. Low placed bumpers can scrape against pothole craters, paintwork can be scratched more easily and dents are another risk. Though this kind of damage won’t necessarily affect the safety or performance of your car, it can decrease the value of your vehicle as well as increase your cosmetic repair bill.

What you can do to minimise the damage:

With approximately one pothole for every one mile of road in the UK, it is impossible to completely avoid driving over them however there are a couple of things you can do to mitigate the impact on your car.

How to report a pothole and make a claim:

The first thing to do before you report or make a claim on pothole damage is to collect evidence of the pothole in question and the damage caused. The best kind of evidence is photographs, so ensure that you take pictures of the pothole from different angles and try to indicate the depth of it by including an object like the nearest lamppost or tree to show the scale. You should also take pictures of the damage to your vehicle. Note down the name of the road and whereabouts on the road the pothole is situated i.e. near to a junction.

Reporting a pothole is very simple as all councils in England have a service to report potholes on their website. To find out which council maintains the road with the pothole on, you can enter the road name, town or postcode into the Gov.uk website. If the pothole is on a motorway or major A-road, it is best to go directly to Highways England who is responsible for maintaining these roads.

Before making a claim, it is important to bear in mind that your chances of success are reliant on whether the council is already aware of the pothole in question, i.e. if it has already been reported to them. If the pothole has not been reported, councils are likely to argue that they cannot be held responsible for a pothole that they are not aware of. Therefore, you should always report a pothole if you come across one.

If your car needs to be repaired as a result of the damage caused by a pothole, get some quotes and keep all quotes, invoices and payment receipts safe. It is also a good idea to make copies of them to include in your claim.

Next, you should write to the relevant authorities, either the council responsible for the road or Highways England, outlining the reason for your claim, what occurred, the damage incurred to your vehicle and all evidence including photographs, quotes, invoices and receipts. If the authority believes that you have a valid claim, they will usually send you a damage report form that you will be required to fill out and send back. In addition to the form and your own evidence, you could also be asked to provide quotes and invoices of the repairs, an up to date MOT certificate and photos of the damage.

Remember that if the relevant authority has not previously recorded the pothole, and they can prove that they have a regular inspection and repair system for roads in place, your chances of making a successful claim are slim and so you should prepare yourself for this possibility. If your claim is rejected, it might be worth going to the small claims court, although bear in mind that you could end up with additional legal costs by doing this so it is important to weigh up the various costs against what there is to gain.

headlights-close-up

What are smart motorways?

A smart motorway is an area of motorway that is controlled by active traffic management (ATM) technology that aims to reduce congestion and increase motorway capacity in particularly busy areas. They can be identified by the absence of a hard shoulder, as well as variable speed limits and other information displayed on digital screens on the gantries overhead. There are three main types of smart motorway:

Controlled Motorway (CM)

 Controlled motorways maintain the traditional layout of three or more lanes with a hard shoulder, which should only be used in the case of a genuine emergency.

The mandatory speed limit is also displayed on the overhead signs, although it is subject to change depending on the traffic conditions. Therefore, drivers must be mindful and responsive to any speed limit changes at all times. If there is no speed limit displayed, then the national limit applies. CCTV and speed cameras are used along smart motorways to enforce speed limits. Highways England has confirmed that the speed cameras are deliberately updated with the new speed limit slightly after drivers are, in order to allow people to slow down safely without slamming on the brakes to slow down in time.

All Lanes Running (ALR)

An all lanes running scheme entails the use of the hard shoulder as an additional lane for cars to use normally. The only time the hard shoulder (or ‘first lane’) is closed off is when there has been an incident in which case, a red ‘X’ is displayed on the gantry sign overhead indicating that all vehicles must move out of that lane immediately. Failure to do is extremely dangerous and can result in points on your license and a fine.

All lane running motorways have Emergency Refuge Areas (ERAs) at the side of the road in the event of an emergency, that are spaced approximately 1.5 miles apart.

Like a Controlled Motorway, variable mandatory speed limits are displayed overhead.

Dynamic Hard Shoulder (DHS)

Dynamic hard shoulder running schemes make use of the hard shoulder as a normal running lane during particularly busy times but in normal circumstances, keeps it reserved for emergencies and incidents. A single white line is used to distinguish the hard shoulder from the carriageway and overhead signs will indicate whether it is open for normal traffic to use.

Like the other two types of smart motorway, variable speed limits are displayed overhead, speed cameras are in use and a red ‘X’ means that that lane is shut to normal traffic.

How much safer are smart motorways?

 Smart motorways have received a mixture of responses since the very first one was implemented on the M42 in the West Midlands in 2006. Whilst their main purpose is to control traffic, improve the flow of vehicles and overall road safety, many people have said that the absence of a hard should actually makes them much more dangerous, particularly in the event of an emergency. In response to the criticism, Highways England has asserted that smart motorways have

The future of smart motorways

 Smart motorways are still being developed all the time, as constant advancements in technology enable improvements to the once basic system to be made. One major plan involves the use of sophisticated 5G broadband that will run through fibre optic cables along busy motorways between major cities such as London, Bristol, Leeds and Manchester. This 5G broadband will send real-time traffic updates straight to driver’s phones, including information about road diversions, heavy congestion and any accidents causing obstructions. There are even suggestions that this technology will be able to ‘predict’ heavy traffic and provide alternative route suggestions in real time (although to what degree it will accurately be able to do this is yet to be determined).

There are some plans to bring in drones on smart motorways, which could help to detect and send information about heavy traffic and potholes to the National Roads Telecommunications Service.

In Merseyside, an initiative involving smart LED road studs has already been implemented at one of the country’s busiest and most dangerous motorway junctions. Like normal cat eyes but with smart technology, these studs are synchronised with the nearest traffic lights and will turn off when the lights turn red, indicating for vehicles to prepare to stop.

All the smart motorways currently operating in the UK are as follows:

Motorway Junction Type
M1 J6a – J10
J10 – J13
J16 – J19
J25 – J28
J28 – J31
J31 – J32
J32 – J35a
J39 – J42		 CM
DHS
ALR
CM
ALR
CM
ALR
ALR
M3 J2 – J4a ALR
M4 J19 – J20
J24 – J28		 DHS
CM
M5 J4a – J6
J15 – J17		 ALR
DHS
M6 J4 – J10a
J10
J10a – J11a
J11a – J13		 DHS
Through junction running
CM
ALR
M20 J4/J5 – J CM
M25 J20 – J3
J5 – J6
J6 – J7 anti clockwise
J6 – J7 clockwise
J7 – J23
J23 – J27
J27 – J30		 CM
ALR
CM
CM
CM
ALR
CM
M40 J3a – J7 DHS
M42 J3a – J7

 

J7 – J9

DHS

 

CM
M62 J18 – J20
J25 – J26
J26 – J28
J28 – J29
J29 – J30 east
J29 – J30 west		 ALR
ALR
DHS
CM
DHS
ALR
M90 J1a – J3 DHS

eu-uk

Following a vote of no confidence in the prime ministers proposed Brexit plans, the UK Government battles on to determine what kind of deal (or no-deal) we will be leaving the EU with on 29th March 2019. One of the major industries that will be affected in one way or another by Brexit is the UK car industry. Read on to find out what Britain’s departure from the EU could mean for car manufacturers and motorists in the UK.

Car Manufacturers

The UK automotive industry currently employs roughly 800,000 people. With major manufacturing plants for Toyota, Nissan, Mini, Land Rover, Honda and Jaguar based in the UK, a no deal departure could see huge numbers of job losses if these manufacturers decide to move onto the continent to avoid disruptions to the import of supplies after March 29th. Since June 2016, investment in the automotive sector has dropped by almost a third as a result of uncertainties about leaving the Single Market.

A no-deal Brexit also has the potential to cause a major blow to the electric vehicle market. The incentives for car manufacturers to push sales of their electric vehicles in the UK could be hugely undermined by the announcement that electric cars sold within the UK will no longer count towards manufacturers EU Co2 targets, giving carmakers little reason to sell their cars in the UK. As a result, the Government pledge to phase out petrol and diesel vehicle sales by 2040 is likely to be compromised by this.

Car Prices

One of the main concerns of car buyers is whether the price of cars will increase. The likely answer to this is that they will although we can only estimate by how much. The Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders (SMMT) has proposed that EU tariffs on cars could add around £2.7billion to imports and £1.8 billion to exports each year. Subsequently, import tariffs alone could increase the list price of cars imported from Europe to the UK by £1500 on average, which is bad news for car buyers.

Additionally, the falling value of the British pound as a result of Brexit has meant that a lot of car manufacturers have had to put restrictions on the incentives they can offer to customers. This includes discounts on brand new cars, which has been compounded by the new WLTP (worldwide light harmonised light vehicle) fuel economy regulations that stalled the production of some models in the last six months of 2018.

Fuel prices

A rise in the price of crude oil coupled with the depreciation of the pound is likely to result in a noticeable increase in petrol prices. If we leave the EU in March having failed to agree on the terms of our exit, an expected drop in the value of the pound could see fuel prices going up by as much as 20%. This could mean that the average cost of a full tank of petrol goes up to record price of £70 later in the year.

Car Finance

Car finance is another area of the car industry that faces some uncertainty. The likelihood is that it will be affected as a resulting consequence of manufacturers moving their factories to other EU states following our departure. Companies who lend large amounts of money depend on the wholesale markets to sustain themselves and if the UK motoring market is threatened by major moves to France or Germany, then it is possible that the cost of borrowing will go up. Many are speculating that this could make it harder to obtain car finance in the future, although nothing is certain at the moment.

Insurance

Car insurance premiums are currently at their record high, which can again be put down to the instability of the pound during these times of political unrest. In terms of the legalities of car insurance policies, it is unlikely that there will be any significant changes if any just yet.

Driving abroad

Under current EU legislation, a valid UK driving license permits drivers to drive abroad throughout the EU without requiring additional documentation. However, in the event of a no-deal, driving licenses may become invalid without the purchase of an International Driving Permit (IDP) through the Post Office. If you plan to hire a car abroad, you may still need to purchase an IDP. In addition, motorists planning to hire or take their own vehicle abroad after 29th March must also carry a Green Card, which proves that they are covered by third party insurance within the EU, EEA, Andorra, Serbia and Switzerland. Anyone who drives in the EU without a Green Card could be breaking the law.

Additional complications could include longer waiting times at borders whilst British drivers get their passports stamped as well as extra customs controls.

Summary

Whilst it may seem like doom and gloom for the UK automotive industry and its customers, it’s important to remember that nothing is certain yet. With the terms of our exit from the EU still hanging in the balance, it remains to be seen what will happen across many industries, including the car industry.

This being said, if you are thinking of buying a new car anytime soon, it may be a good idea to do so before March 29th. With the sales of cars in the UK at a low in 2018, and the increasing likelihood of a no deal Brexit approaching, many car dealers are eager to get rid of their stock as soon as they can, making now a prime time to get a good deal on a new car.

As technology improves and concerns about the environment grow, more and more customers are rejecting petrol and diesel engines in favour of hybrid or fully electric vehicles (EVs). In fact, there’s a high probability that at some point within our lifetimes, everybody will be driving electric vehicles. It has even been suggested that by the year 2040, electric cars will make up around 50% of new car sales globally. With new charging points popping up around our streets, car parks and garages, it is somewhat of an inevitability that we are moving into electric motoring which looks to be, a complete revolution of personal transportation.

Unlike petrol and diesel cars, electric vehicles work without an engine and gears. Electric current is used to power a motor that generates energy into turning force and movement. As a result, there’s no need for a clutch or gear stick with the primary means of driving being simply accelerating and braking. Until recently, many consumers rejected fully electric cars as a result of “range anxiety” or the fear being stranded when your cars electric batteries run out of power, opting for the protection of hybrid options instead. However, improvements in electric motors mean that long-range offerings are much more prevalent nowadays and will continue to be as technology improves and demand increases.

It’s no small decision, so if you are thinking of investing in an EV, read on to learn more about the pros and cons of going fully electric:

two-white-and-red-tesla-charging-station

advantages

Quiet

One of the biggest attractions of EV’s for many people is that they are significantly quieter than standard car engines. They produce very little sound meaning that noise pollution in heavily congested areas could be reduced dramatically if more people take the electric approach. Critics of EV’s suggest that the quietness of electric cars makes them more of a hazard for other road users since we often hear cars before we see them, however as we become more used to quieter cars, this risk will diminish.

Home recharging

EV’s can easily be charged at home as they are compatible with the standard domestic socket. Just like charging your phone or tablet, many EV owners opt to plug their cars in overnight so that when they wake up it’s fully powered up and ready to go. You can also charge when you’re out and about; as EV’s grow in popularity, more and more public charging points are appearing across the UK. The time an EV takes to charge depends on the size of the car and the type of battery it has however on average, the standard time for a fully electric car to charge using a standard mains electricity source is between 6-8 hours.

Cheaper running costs

Whilst electric cars are more expensive to purchase than most traditional cars, the difference soon balances out with things like petrol and road tax. The cost of charging an electric car is a fraction of the price of petrol, for 100 miles range you are unlikely to pay more than £4.00, which is remarkably cheap when you consider your weekly/monthly petrol expenses. What’s more, EV’s are exempt from road tax because of their low emissions, they do not have to pay the London Congestion Charge and in many public Pay and Display car parks, they can park for free.

No tailpipe emissions

Though technically not ‘zero emission’ because of the pollution produced during the process of generating electricity, EV’s are much kinder on the environment than standard fuel based cars. This is because they do not require an exhaust system, and therefore do not release harmful emissions into the atmosphere when being driven.

Maintenance

EV’s generally require less maintenance than traditional cars because they do not use oil to run or have nearly as many parts as a typical combustion engine. This means that EV’s require less frequent maintenance checks and are therefore cheaper to maintain. There will be fewer garages able to offer servicing on EV’s at the minute, however, over time the demand for EV mechanics will increase as more people begin to drive electric.

disadvantages

Limited range

Whilst manufacturers are working to increase the range of EV batteries, currently, the majority of electric-only vehicles will have a range of between 80-100 miles on a full charge. This is generally ok for most people, given that the average UK driver only covers 25 miles a day, however, those needing to travel longer distances may find the need for regular charging inconvenient.

Long charging time

The time it takes to recharge an electric car is much longer than the time it takes to put more fuel in your tank. On average, the more affordable EV’s can take between 6-8 hours, whilst some models can take up to 15-20 hours which is a massive inconvenience if you want to travel some distance. There are devices that can help to accelerate the speed of charging, although this is another cost to consider.

Higher initial investment

On average the more affordable end of the EV price spectrum is around £30-40,000, whilst for more expensive models you can expect to pay upwards of £80,000. For the majority of people, this is a staggering amount of money to pay for a car when you can get normal cars for much less. It is important to remember that additional running costs will be much lower and there are incentive schemes such as the UK Plug-in car Grant, which offers some money towards buying an EV.

Lack of choice

Although EV’s are becoming more prevalent, there is much less choice of electric than standard cars, when it comes to choosing the one for you. If you’re someone who cares about how your car looks this may be a drawback, although over the next few years more models are likely to be released into the market, as well as electric versions of existing popular models as the technology advances and demand spreads.

should I get an electric vehicle?

With the current offerings of EV’s on the market, fully electric cars are not yet suitable for everybody. If you’re someone who regularly drives long distances or use your car more than the average person, it may make more sense to drive a hybrid until longer range EV’s are available. With this being said, it is a good idea to start learning more about hybrids and electrics so that in the future when they become much more common you are able to find one that suits your needs. As they are still very much a work in progress, it is also likely that existing issues like charging time and high prices will be reduced and range will increase.

The great thing about modern cars is that they have inbuilt self-diagnostic systems that will usually be able to identify any internal problems before you or your mechanic can. When internal sensors detect a fault in your cars system, a warning light will illuminate on your dashboard in order to alert you to that problem. A specific symbol will be used to specify where in your car the problem lies. However, how many of us can honestly say we know exactly what each symbol means? It’s a good idea to become familiar with what each warning light is telling you so that if/when it comes on you’ll be able to seek out the appropriate help as soon as possible in order to prevent a potential break down and a hefty repair bill from the garage. Below we outline what each warning symbol means and what you should do if it becomes illuminated:

 1 . Brake system / brake fluid warning light

What to do: check you haven’t left your parking brake on, otherwise take it to a garage for a professional to check. If your brakes feel spongy or different than usual then you should pull over immediately and call your breakdown service.

2. ECU/ engine warning light

What to do: if you are noticing additional warning signs such as a lack of power in your car or intermittent stuttering when pressing the accelerator it could indicate that your car has put itself into safety mode. Even if you are not experiencing any of the above it is still advisable that you take your car to the garage.

3. Airbag warning light

What to do: this may seem like a non urgent issue but airbags are an essential safety feature of cars and you should get this fixed as soon as possible; if you are in an accident you and your passengers will not have any protection, or it could activate when you are not expecting which can cause an accident and injury too.

4. Power steering / EPAS warning light

What to do: if your steering system fails you may notice that the steering feels heavy and you have to exert more effort when changing direction; at high speed driving this can be very dangerous so you should pull over and call for help immediately.

5. Coolant warning light

What to do: Pull over in order to allow your engine to cool down. If it is safe to do so, check the gauge on the side of the coolant tank under your bonnet and top up with coolant however be very careful not to scald yourself on the escaping steam. If the light remains on after doing this, this could indicate there is a more serious problem, which will need to be looked at by a mechanic.

6. Oil warning light

What to do: pull over on the side of the road or drive to the nearest garage. Allow your car to cool down fully and check your oil levels using the dipstick. If it is too low, you’ll need to get a mechanic to top it up before you continue driving.

7. Tyre pressure monitor warning light

What to do: Most petrol stations have machines where you can re-inflate your tyres yourself so you should drive to the nearest one as soon as possible in order to do so. If this is not possible, it is best to stop and call for assistance as low tyre pressure can affect your braking distance and can become dangerous or lead to a puncture. If you have a puncture and know how to replace your tyre with the spare one then proceed to do so, or use a sealant as a temporary measure.

8. Anti-lock braking system warning light

What to do: You should get this checked out right away, as it is essential in braking hard in the case of emergencies. If both your ABS light and your brake warning light come on together, this could indicate a serious problem with your brakes which needs to get checked out immediately.

9. Doors open warning light

What to do: Pull over safely and ensure all doors are shut properly.

10. Battery charge warning light

What to do: Turn off anything non essential that will be using your battery including the radio, heating, air conditioning, charging devices, sat navs, heated seats. Don’t stop driving or turn off the engine as your car may not start again, so drive somewhere safe (ideally a garage) and stop there.

11. Seat belt warning light

What to do: Ensure that you and all passengers are wearing a seatbelt correctly; as the registered driver you are obliged by law to check this before setting off.

12. Traction control warning light

What to do: Slow down to allow your vehicle to regain control and traction. If the light does not go off after doing this there could be an underlying problem which you should get checked out at a garage.

car-showrooms-mercedez-benz

Every vehicle that is registered and taxed in the UK is allocated a set of numbers and letters that is used to identify it. When the vehicle gets passed on to another owner, the previous registered keeper is able to choose to transfer or retain the number, otherwise, it stays with that vehicle until it is destroyed or exported internationally.

Every March and September, car manufacturers will release the latest models of their cars, meaning that brand new sets of registration numbers are also formulated. The numbers and letters that are allocated are not random but signify the year in which the car was made as well as where it was originally registered. This system was first introduced in September 2001.

Every number plate follows this format:

 

Age identifier

Year 1st March – 31st August 1st September – 28/29th February
2001/02   51
2002/03 02 52
2003/04 03 53
2004/05 04 54
2005/06 05 55
2006/07 06 56
2007/08 07 57
2008/09 08 58
2009/10 09 59
2010/11 10 60
2011/12 11 61
2012/13 12 62
2013/14 13 63
2014/15 14 64
2015/16 15 65
2016/17 16 66
2017/18 17 67
2018/19 18 68
2019/20 19 69

 

The rules of the new number plate system

Personalised Registration Plates

Highway code

Car drivers have always been advised to pass cyclists widely, allowing enough space to ensure that you do not sideswipe them accidentally or cause them to swerve to avoid you. However, additional guidelines have now been added to the Highway Code, stating that a gap of 1.5m or 4ft 11in should be left between your car and the cyclist. This is roughly the width of a car door and failure to do so could result in a £100 fine.

Smart motorways

You could also now face a £100 fine as well as points on your driving license if you are caught driving through a red X sign on a smart motorway.

Learner drivers on motorways

In 2018, it was announced that the rules for learner drivers would be changed to allow them to drive on motorways whilst they are still learning. Previously, driving on the motorway was forbidden for those without the full UK driving license however this new legislation will allow learner drivers to practise motorway driving with the supervision of a qualified instructor.

MOT’s

This year, additional MOT categories will be introduced to assess the safety of a vehicle. The new categories are: dangerous, major, minor, advisory and pass.

Dangerous – cars regarded to be a direct or immediate risk to road safety or the environment. MOT failure.

Major – the car is unsafe and could present a risk to other road users or the environment. MOT failure.

Minor – no significant effect on the safety of the car but the fault must be repaired as soon as possible.

Advisory – no immediate or significant risk to the car’s safety but something has been identified that could become a more serious issue over time.

Pass – Meets the minimum legal standards for car maintenance and condition.

Graduated driving licences

A graduated driving license is something that is still being explored as a possibility. It would mean more restrictions on newly passed drivers for a set period of time after they have passed their test such as curfews, a limited number of passengers, speed limits, engine size limits, mandatory P plates and lower alcohol limits. The reason that graduated driving licenses are being considered is because around one quarter of newly passed motorists are involved in an accident within the first two years of being on the road. Up to 400 young drivers are involved in serious or fatal accidents each year. The new legislation could help to lower this number of new driver accidents significantly.

Car tax

In the autumn budget, it was announced that there would be a further increase in vehicle excise duty rates in accordance with inflation. The new rates will impact both the first year rate on new cars and the annual tax on all vehicles.

From 01.04.2019, the annual rate for all petrol and diesel cars that were registered after 01.04.2017 will go up from £140 to £145 (the £10 discount on hybrid cars will remain).

First year rates on new cars will increase in accordance with the retail index price, which will mean that for the least environmentally friendly cars, there could be an increase of up to £65. The additional cost on cars worth over £40,000 will rise to £320 per year for five years.

If your car was initially taxed before the 2017 changes, your tax could increase by £5-£15.


Your car’s engine has an inbuilt exhaust system made up of pipes and chambers that are designed to channel fumes away from the engine and out of the vehicle. Its other functions are to filter out noxious chemicals from the fumes in order to reduce harmful emissions into the atmosphere, as well as diminish the noises made by an engine during the burning of fuel. Because of the work that an exhaust system is doing, it’s likely that from time to time you will be able to see visible gas exiting through your vehicle. Sometimes it is completely normal and nothing to worry about, however on other occasions the colour, smell and quantity of the exhaust fumes can indicate a serious underlying problem with your car that needs to be checked out by a professional. In this article we will outline the various kinds of smoke your engine might produce and what it could mean:

Light and slightly translucent white smoke

If you can see light white smoke coming from your car, this is usually water vapour (steam) and nothing to worry about. You’ll be able to notice it when you first start your car and it is more visible in cold weather. After your car has warmed up fully, the white steam should stop. The reason that your car is producing steam is that when a cold engine is started and begins to heat up, the condensation that normally sits in exhaust pipes is turned into steam as the water vapour heats.

White steam is usually not a cause for concern however it can lead to corrosion and rusting in the exhaust pipes if you only use your car for very short journeys and don’t allow the engine to heat up fully.

Blue Smoke

Blue smoke coming out of your car’s exhaust could mean that some of the engine oil has entered into the fuel system somewhere. It’s not uncommon for blue smoke to also have a burning smell, which is a tell-tale sign that there’s a problem that needs to be fixed.

Sometimes this will happen right after your car has been serviced, which is usually because too much oil has been put back into the system and the excess is simply being burnt off. If the smoke stops after a while, then you won’t need to take it to a garage to get checked.

In cars that have been heavily used, the seals around the valves and piston heads may have become worn down, allowing oil to seep into the fuel system. In this case, you’ll need to get all seals replaced, which can be a costly procedure.

Grey Smoke

Grey smoke coming from your engine could also be an indicator that there has been an oil leak somewhere. Alternatively, it could suggest that the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is defective or worn out as the purpose of this part is for emission control. Fortunately, repairing a PVC valve is a fairly straightforward procedure. If your car is an automatic, then grey smoke could be a sign that the transmission fluid has escaped into the engine via a leak, in which case, repairs are essential and usually quite costly.

Black Smoke

In a petrol car, black smoke indicates that too much fuel is being burnt which could be because the air filter needs replacing. It could also mean that the fuel injectors are blocked or the pressure regulator needs a clean, so to be sure that this has been properly examined it is best to take it to a garage.

In a diesel car, black smoke can be caused by a build up soot, which occurs when there is an excess of unburnt fuel. Diesel cars are fitted with a particulate filter in order to trap this soot however it is possible for deposits to build up gradually if you only use your car for short and slow journeys. Luckily, this can be dealt with without having to go to a garage; simply take your car onto a dual carriageway or motorway and accelerate up to 70mph which should help the air and fuel pass through the system faster. By doing this, you’ll help dislodge some of the soot and the warning light should disappear.

Thick white smoke

A large quantity of thick white/grey smoke coming from the tailpipe could be an indication that there is a leaking head gasket, which can lead to an overheated engine. Alternatively, heavy white smoke might mean that your car has a cracked block or cylinder head which both need to be seen to as a matter of urgency.

In any case that you are concerned about the emissions coming from your car, it is best to be safe and visit a garage for a mechanic to have a look. If you leave it too long, you could cause more damage to your car and rack up a huge bill for repairs so get it checked promptly.