A smart motorway is an area of motorway that is controlled by active traffic management (ATM) technology that aims to reduce congestion and increase motorway capacity in particularly busy areas. They can be identified by the absence of a hard shoulder, as well as variable speed limits and other information displayed on digital screens on the gantries overhead. There are three main types of smart motorway:
Controlled Motorway (CM)
Controlled motorways maintain the traditional layout of three or more lanes with a hard shoulder, which should only be used in the case of a genuine emergency.
The mandatory speed limit is also displayed on the overhead signs, although it is subject to change depending on the traffic conditions. Therefore, drivers must be mindful and responsive to any speed limit changes at all times. If there is no speed limit displayed, then the national limit applies. CCTV and speed cameras are used along smart motorways to enforce speed limits. Highways England has confirmed that the speed cameras are deliberately updated with the new speed limit slightly after drivers are, in order to allow people to slow down safely without slamming on the brakes to slow down in time.
All Lanes Running (ALR)
An all lanes running scheme entails the use of the hard shoulder as an additional lane for cars to use normally. The only time the hard shoulder (or ‘first lane’) is closed off is when there has been an incident in which case, a red ‘X’ is displayed on the gantry sign overhead indicating that all vehicles must move out of that lane immediately. Failure to do is extremely dangerous and can result in points on your license and a fine.
All lane running motorways have Emergency Refuge Areas (ERAs) at the side of the road in the event of an emergency, that are spaced approximately 1.5 miles apart.
Like a Controlled Motorway, variable mandatory speed limits are displayed overhead.
Dynamic Hard Shoulder (DHS)
Dynamic hard shoulder running schemes make use of the hard shoulder as a normal running lane during particularly busy times but in normal circumstances, keeps it reserved for emergencies and incidents. A single white line is used to distinguish the hard shoulder from the carriageway and overhead signs will indicate whether it is open for normal traffic to use.
Like the other two types of smart motorway, variable speed limits are displayed overhead, speed cameras are in use and a red ‘X’ means that that lane is shut to normal traffic.
How much safer are smart motorways?
Smart motorways have received a mixture of responses since the very first one was implemented on the M42 in the West Midlands in 2006. Whilst their main purpose is to control traffic, improve the flow of vehicles and overall road safety, many people have said that the absence of a hard should actually makes them much more dangerous, particularly in the event of an emergency. In response to the criticism, Highways England has asserted that smart motorways have
Improved journey reliability by 22%
Reduced the number of personal injury accidents by over 50%
Severity of accidents when they did occur is much reduced with no fatalities and fewer serious injuries.
The future of smart motorways
Smart motorways are still being developed all the time, as constant advancements in technology enable improvements to the once basic system to be made. One major plan involves the use of sophisticated 5G broadband that will run through fibre optic cables along busy motorways between major cities such as London, Bristol, Leeds and Manchester. This 5G broadband will send real-time traffic updates straight to driver’s phones, including information about road diversions, heavy congestion and any accidents causing obstructions. There are even suggestions that this technology will be able to ‘predict’ heavy traffic and provide alternative route suggestions in real time (although to what degree it will accurately be able to do this is yet to be determined).
There are some plans to bring in drones on smart motorways, which could help to detect and send information about heavy traffic and potholes to the National Roads Telecommunications Service.
In Merseyside, an initiative involving smart LED road studs has already been implemented at one of the country’s busiest and most dangerous motorway junctions. Like normal cat eyes but with smart technology, these studs are synchronised with the nearest traffic lights and will turn off when the lights turn red, indicating for vehicles to prepare to stop.
All the smart motorways currently operating in the UK are as follows:
J18 – J20 J25 – J26 J26 – J28 J28 – J29 J29 – J30 east J29 – J30 west
ALR ALR DHS CM DHS ALR
M90
J1a – J3
DHS
Following a vote of no confidence in the prime ministers proposed Brexit plans, the UK Government battles on to determine what kind of deal (or no-deal) we will be leaving the EU with on 29th March 2019. One of the major industries that will be affected in one way or another by Brexit is the UK car industry. Read on to find out what Britain’s departure from the EU could mean for car manufacturers and motorists in the UK.
Car Manufacturers
The UK automotive industry currently employs roughly 800,000 people. With major manufacturing plants for Toyota, Nissan, Mini, Land Rover, Honda and Jaguar based in the UK, a no deal departure could see huge numbers of job losses if these manufacturers decide to move onto the continent to avoid disruptions to the import of supplies after March 29th. Since June 2016, investment in the automotive sector has dropped by almost a third as a result of uncertainties about leaving the Single Market.
A no-deal Brexit also has the potential to cause a major blow to the electric vehicle market. The incentives for car manufacturers to push sales of their electric vehicles in the UK could be hugely undermined by the announcement that electric cars sold within the UK will no longer count towards manufacturers EU Co2 targets, giving carmakers little reason to sell their cars in the UK. As a result, the Government pledge to phase out petrol and diesel vehicle sales by 2040 is likely to be compromised by this.
Car Prices
One of the main concerns of car buyers is whether the price of cars will increase. The likely answer to this is that they will although we can only estimate by how much. The Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders (SMMT) has proposed that EU tariffs on cars could add around £2.7billion to imports and £1.8 billion to exports each year. Subsequently, import tariffs alone could increase the list price of cars imported from Europe to the UK by £1500 on average, which is bad news for car buyers.
Additionally, the falling value of the British pound as a result of Brexit has meant that a lot of car manufacturers have had to put restrictions on the incentives they can offer to customers. This includes discounts on brand new cars, which has been compounded by the new WLTP (worldwide light harmonised light vehicle) fuel economy regulations that stalled the production of some models in the last six months of 2018.
Fuel prices
A rise in the price of crude oil coupled with the depreciation of the pound is likely to result in a noticeable increase in petrol prices. If we leave the EU in March having failed to agree on the terms of our exit, an expected drop in the value of the pound could see fuel prices going up by as much as 20%. This could mean that the average cost of a full tank of petrol goes up to record price of £70 later in the year.
Car Finance
Car finance is another area of the car industry that faces some uncertainty. The likelihood is that it will be affected as a resulting consequence of manufacturers moving their factories to other EU states following our departure. Companies who lend large amounts of money depend on the wholesale markets to sustain themselves and if the UK motoring market is threatened by major moves to France or Germany, then it is possible that the cost of borrowing will go up. Many are speculating that this could make it harder to obtain car finance in the future, although nothing is certain at the moment.
Insurance
Car insurance premiums are currently at their record high, which can again be put down to the instability of the pound during these times of political unrest. In terms of the legalities of car insurance policies, it is unlikely that there will be any significant changes if any just yet.
Driving abroad
Under current EU legislation, a valid UK driving license permits drivers to drive abroad throughout the EU without requiring additional documentation. However, in the event of a no-deal, driving licenses may become invalid without the purchase of an International Driving Permit (IDP) through the Post Office. If you plan to hire a car abroad, you may still need to purchase an IDP. In addition, motorists planning to hire or take their own vehicle abroad after 29th March must also carry a Green Card, which proves that they are covered by third party insurance within the EU, EEA, Andorra, Serbia and Switzerland. Anyone who drives in the EU without a Green Card could be breaking the law.
Additional complications could include longer waiting times at borders whilst British drivers get their passports stamped as well as extra customs controls.
Summary
Whilst it may seem like doom and gloom for the UK automotive industry and its customers, it’s important to remember that nothing is certain yet. With the terms of our exit from the EU still hanging in the balance, it remains to be seen what will happen across many industries, including the car industry.
This being said, if you are thinking of buying a new car anytime soon, it may be a good idea to do so before March 29th. With the sales of cars in the UK at a low in 2018, and the increasing likelihood of a no deal Brexit approaching, many car dealers are eager to get rid of their stock as soon as they can, making now a prime time to get a good deal on a new car.
As technology improves and concerns about the environment grow, more and more customers are rejecting petrol and diesel engines in favour of hybrid or fully electric vehicles (EVs). In fact, there’s a high probability that at some point within our lifetimes, everybody will be driving electric vehicles. It has even been suggested that by the year 2040, electric cars will make up around 50% of new car sales globally. With new charging points popping up around our streets, car parks and garages, it is somewhat of an inevitability that we are moving into electric motoring which looks to be, a complete revolution of personal transportation.
Unlike petrol and diesel cars, electric vehicles work without an engine and gears. Electric current is used to power a motor that generates energy into turning force and movement. As a result, there’s no need for a clutch or gear stick with the primary means of driving being simply accelerating and braking. Until recently, many consumers rejected fully electric cars as a result of “range anxiety” or the fear being stranded when your cars electric batteries run out of power, opting for the protection of hybrid options instead. However, improvements in electric motors mean that long-range offerings are much more prevalent nowadays and will continue to be as technology improves and demand increases.
It’s no small decision, so if you are thinking of investing in an EV, read on to learn more about the pros and cons of going fully electric:
advantages
Quiet
One of the biggest attractions of EV’s for many people is that they are significantly quieter than standard car engines. They produce very little sound meaning that noise pollution in heavily congested areas could be reduced dramatically if more people take the electric approach. Critics of EV’s suggest that the quietness of electric cars makes them more of a hazard for other road users since we often hear cars before we see them, however as we become more used to quieter cars, this risk will diminish.
Home recharging
EV’s can easily be charged at home as they are compatible with the standard domestic socket. Just like charging your phone or tablet, many EV owners opt to plug their cars in overnight so that when they wake up it’s fully powered up and ready to go. You can also charge when you’re out and about; as EV’s grow in popularity, more and more public charging points are appearing across the UK. The time an EV takes to charge depends on the size of the car and the type of battery it has however on average, the standard time for a fully electric car to charge using a standard mains electricity source is between 6-8 hours.
Cheaper running costs
Whilst electric cars are more expensive to purchase than most traditional cars, the difference soon balances out with things like petrol and road tax. The cost of charging an electric car is a fraction of the price of petrol, for 100 miles range you are unlikely to pay more than £4.00, which is remarkably cheap when you consider your weekly/monthly petrol expenses. What’s more, EV’s are exempt from road tax because of their low emissions, they do not have to pay the London Congestion Charge and in many public Pay and Display car parks, they can park for free.
No tailpipe emissions
Though technically not ‘zero emission’ because of the pollution produced during the process of generating electricity, EV’s are much kinder on the environment than standard fuel based cars. This is because they do not require an exhaust system, and therefore do not release harmful emissions into the atmosphere when being driven.
Maintenance
EV’s generally require less maintenance than traditional cars because they do not use oil to run or have nearly as many parts as a typical combustion engine. This means that EV’s require less frequent maintenance checks and are therefore cheaper to maintain. There will be fewer garages able to offer servicing on EV’s at the minute, however, over time the demand for EV mechanics will increase as more people begin to drive electric.
disadvantages
Limited range
Whilst manufacturers are working to increase the range of EV batteries, currently, the majority of electric-only vehicles will have a range of between 80-100 miles on a full charge. This is generally ok for most people, given that the average UK driver only covers 25 miles a day, however, those needing to travel longer distances may find the need for regular charging inconvenient.
Long charging time
The time it takes to recharge an electric car is much longer than the time it takes to put more fuel in your tank. On average, the more affordable EV’s can take between 6-8 hours, whilst some models can take up to 15-20 hours which is a massive inconvenience if you want to travel some distance. There are devices that can help to accelerate the speed of charging, although this is another cost to consider.
Higher initial investment
On average the more affordable end of the EV price spectrum is around £30-40,000, whilst for more expensive models you can expect to pay upwards of £80,000. For the majority of people, this is a staggering amount of money to pay for a car when you can get normal cars for much less. It is important to remember that additional running costs will be much lower and there are incentive schemes such as the UK Plug-in car Grant, which offers some money towards buying an EV.
Lack of choice
Although EV’s are becoming more prevalent, there is much less choice of electric than standard cars, when it comes to choosing the one for you. If you’re someone who cares about how your car looks this may be a drawback, although over the next few years more models are likely to be released into the market, as well as electric versions of existing popular models as the technology advances and demand spreads.
should I get an electric vehicle?
With the current offerings of EV’s on the market, fully electric cars are not yet suitable for everybody. If you’re someone who regularly drives long distances or use your car more than the average person, it may make more sense to drive a hybrid until longer range EV’s are available. With this being said, it is a good idea to start learning more about hybrids and electrics so that in the future when they become much more common you are able to find one that suits your needs. As they are still very much a work in progress, it is also likely that existing issues like charging time and high prices will be reduced and range will increase.
The great thing about modern cars is that they have inbuilt self-diagnostic systems that will usually be able to identify any internal problems before you or your mechanic can. When internal sensors detect a fault in your cars system, a warning light will illuminate on your dashboard in order to alert you to that problem. A specific symbol will be used to specify where in your car the problem lies. However, how many of us can honestly say we know exactly what each symbol means? It’s a good idea to become familiar with what each warning light is telling you so that if/when it comes on you’ll be able to seek out the appropriate help as soon as possible in order to prevent a potential break down and a hefty repair bill from the garage. Below we outline what each warning symbol means and what you should do if it becomes illuminated:
1 . Brake system / brake fluid warning light
Your parking brake is on
Brake fluid is low
Problem with anti lock braking system (ABS)
What to do: check you haven’t left your parking brake on, otherwise take it to a garage for a professional to check. If your brakes feel spongy or different than usual then you should pull over immediately and call your breakdown service.
2. ECU/ engine warning light
Something minor such as a faulty electrical sensor or a loose fuel cap
Something major such as a failed catalytic converter or a bigger mechanical issue
What to do: if you are noticing additional warning signs such as a lack of power in your car or intermittent stuttering when pressing the accelerator it could indicate that your car has put itself into safety mode. Even if you are not experiencing any of the above it is still advisable that you take your car to the garage.
3. Airbag warning light
Your airbag could be faulty and therefore won’t work in an accident
What to do:this may seem like a non urgent issue but airbags are an essential safety feature of cars and you should get this fixed as soon as possible; if you are in an accident you and your passengers will not have any protection, or it could activate when you are not expecting which can cause an accident and injury too.
4. Power steering / EPAS warning light
Your power steering fluid is low
A more serious issue with the steering system
If you have recently disconnected your cars battery, the steering system may need to be reset
What to do: if your steering system fails you may notice that the steering feels heavy and you have to exert more effort when changing direction; at high speed driving this can be very dangerous so you should pull over and call for help immediately.
5. Coolant warning light
Your coolant fluid levels are low and need topping up
Your engine is overheating
You have a leak in your radiator
What to do: Pull over in order to allow your engine to cool down. If it is safe to do so, check the gauge on the side of the coolant tank under your bonnet and top up with coolant however be very careful not to scald yourself on the escaping steam. If the light remains on after doing this, this could indicate there is a more serious problem, which will need to be looked at by a mechanic.
6. Oil warning light
Oil temperature is too high
Oil level is tool low
Oil pressure is too low
What to do:pull over on the side of the road or drive to the nearest garage. Allow your car to cool down fully and check your oil levels using the dipstick. If it is too low, you’ll need to get a mechanic to top it up before you continue driving.
7. Tyre pressure monitor warning light
You have a puncture in one or multiple tyres
Your tyres pressure is low and they need to be inflated
What to do:Most petrol stations have machines where you can re-inflate your tyres yourself so you should drive to the nearest one as soon as possible in order to do so. If this is not possible, it is best to stop and call for assistance as low tyre pressure can affect your braking distance and can become dangerous or lead to a puncture. If you have a puncture and know how to replace your tyre with the spare one then proceed to do so, or use a sealant as a temporary measure.
8. Anti-lock braking system warning light
There is a fault in your cars ABS braking system
What to do: You should get this checked out right away, as it is essential in braking hard in the case of emergencies. If both your ABS light and your brake warning light come on together, this could indicate a serious problem with your brakes which needs to get checked out immediately.
9. Doors open warning light
Your boot, bonnet or one of the car doors is not shut properly
What to do:Pull over safely and ensure all doors are shut properly.
10. Battery charge warning light
A bad connection or damaged cable
A faulty alternator
A faulty battery
Fault in the electrical system where the car is not charging itself when in motion
What to do:Turn off anything non essential that will be using your battery including the radio, heating, air conditioning, charging devices, sat navs, heated seats. Don’t stop driving or turn off the engine as your car may not start again, so drive somewhere safe (ideally a garage) and stop there.
11. Seat belt warning light
You or a passenger is not wearing a seatbelt whilst the car is in motion
What to do: Ensure that you and all passengers are wearing a seatbelt correctly; as the registered driver you are obliged by law to check this before setting off.
12. Traction control warning light
Your car is losing some of its grip on the road surface
What to do: Slow down to allow your vehicle to regain control and traction. If the light does not go off after doing this there could be an underlying problem which you should get checked out at a garage.
Every vehicle that is registered and taxed in the UK is allocated a set of numbers and letters that is used to identify it. When the vehicle gets passed on to another owner, the previous registered keeper is able to choose to transfer or retain the number, otherwise, it stays with that vehicle until it is destroyed or exported internationally.
Every March and September, car manufacturers will release the latest models of their cars, meaning that brand new sets of registration numbers are also formulated. The numbers and letters that are allocated are not random but signify the year in which the car was made as well as where it was originally registered. This system was first introduced in September 2001.
Every number plate follows this format:
First 2 letters = where the vehicle was registered. The 1st letter indicates the region of the UK and the 2nd letter indicates the local DVLA office.
Middle 2 letters = the age of the vehicle and which half of the year in which it was registered i.e. March to August (the year) / September to February (the year + 50). For example, a car that is registered in April 2019 will have the number 19 in its number plate, whilst a car registered in November 2019 will have the number 69 (19+50).
Last 3 letters = random letters which will allocate the car to a specific dealership.
Age identifier
Year
1st March – 31st August
1st September – 28/29th February
2001/02
51
2002/03
02
52
2003/04
03
53
2004/05
04
54
2005/06
05
55
2006/07
06
56
2007/08
07
57
2008/09
08
58
2009/10
09
59
2010/11
10
60
2011/12
11
61
2012/13
12
62
2013/14
13
63
2014/15
14
64
2015/16
15
65
2016/17
16
66
2017/18
17
67
2018/19
18
68
2019/20
19
69
The rules of the new number plate system
All new number plates must be displayed in the compulsory font.
Number plates created before Sept 2001 must be replaced if they have modified / stylised numbers and letters or if the bolts fixing it in place impede the appearance of the figures.
National flags: From April 2009, drivers in England, Scotland and Wales are permitted to display the Union flag, Cross of St George, Saltire or Red Dragon of Wales. You are also able to display the letters: Great Britain or GB; United Kingdom or UK; ENGLAND, England, ENG or Eng; SCOTLAND, Scotland, SCO or Sco; CYMRU, Cymru, CYM or Cym; WALES or Wales.
When travelling outside of the UK, you are required to add an oval shaped GB sticker to comply with international requirements.
If you are towing a trailer behind your vehicle, you are legally required to clearly display your registration number on both your car and the rear of the trailer so that it is easily visible by those behind you.
Personalised Registration Plates
You can buy a private/personalised registration number from the DVLA or a private dealer.
It must be made from a reflective material.
The front plate must have black characters on a white background.
The back plate must have black characters on a yellow background.
Must be displayed in the standard font and must not have a background pattern.
A registered supplier of number plates must fit it to your vehicle.
You can find available plates through the DVLA’s online database, which will also indicate how much you’ll pay for it.
The DVLA has a policy of restricting any number plates that could be offensive.
Some (but not all) car insurers regard personalised number plates as a form of modification, which could increase your premium, so it is worth checking this before you buy one.
Highway code
Car drivers have always been advised to pass cyclists widely, allowing enough space to ensure that you do not sideswipe them accidentally or cause them to swerve to avoid you. However, additional guidelines have now been added to the Highway Code, stating that a gap of 1.5m or 4ft 11in should be left between your car and the cyclist. This is roughly the width of a car door and failure to do so could result in a £100 fine.
Smart motorways
You could also now face a £100 fine as well as points on your driving license if you are caught driving through a red X sign on a smart motorway.
Learner drivers on motorways
In 2018, it was announced that the rules for learner drivers would be changed to allow them to drive on motorways whilst they are still learning. Previously, driving on the motorway was forbidden for those without the full UK driving license however this new legislation will allow learner drivers to practise motorway driving with the supervision of a qualified instructor.
MOT’s
This year, additional MOT categories will be introduced to assess the safety of a vehicle. The new categories are: dangerous, major, minor, advisory and pass.
Dangerous – cars regarded to be a direct or immediate risk to road safety or the environment. MOT failure.
Major – the car is unsafe and could present a risk to other road users or the environment. MOT failure.
Minor – no significant effect on the safety of the car but the fault must be repaired as soon as possible.
Advisory – no immediate or significant risk to the car’s safety but something has been identified that could become a more serious issue over time.
Pass – Meets the minimum legal standards for car maintenance and condition.
Graduated driving licences
A graduated driving license is something that is still being explored as a possibility. It would mean more restrictions on newly passed drivers for a set period of time after they have passed their test such as curfews, a limited number of passengers, speed limits, engine size limits, mandatory P plates and lower alcohol limits. The reason that graduated driving licenses are being considered is because around one quarter of newly passed motorists are involved in an accident within the first two years of being on the road. Up to 400 young drivers are involved in serious or fatal accidents each year. The new legislation could help to lower this number of new driver accidents significantly.
Car tax
In the autumn budget, it was announced that there would be a further increase in vehicle excise duty rates in accordance with inflation. The new rates will impact both the first year rate on new cars and the annual tax on all vehicles.
From 01.04.2019, the annual rate for all petrol and diesel cars that were registered after 01.04.2017 will go up from £140 to £145 (the £10 discount on hybrid cars will remain).
First year rates on new cars will increase in accordance with the retail index price, which will mean that for the least environmentally friendly cars, there could be an increase of up to £65. The additional cost on cars worth over £40,000 will rise to £320 per year for five years.
If your car was initially taxed before the 2017 changes, your tax could increase by £5-£15.
Your car’s engine has an inbuilt exhaust system made up of pipes and chambers that are designed to channel fumes away from the engine and out of the vehicle. Its other functions are to filter out noxious chemicals from the fumes in order to reduce harmful emissions into the atmosphere, as well as diminish the noises made by an engine during the burning of fuel. Because of the work that an exhaust system is doing, it’s likely that from time to time you will be able to see visible gas exiting through your vehicle. Sometimes it is completely normal and nothing to worry about, however on other occasions the colour, smell and quantity of the exhaust fumes can indicate a serious underlying problem with your car that needs to be checked out by a professional. In this article we will outline the various kinds of smoke your engine might produce and what it could mean:
Light and slightly translucent white smoke
If you can see light white smoke coming from your car, this is usually water vapour (steam) and nothing to worry about. You’ll be able to notice it when you first start your car and it is more visible in cold weather. After your car has warmed up fully, the white steam should stop. The reason that your car is producing steam is that when a cold engine is started and begins to heat up, the condensation that normally sits in exhaust pipes is turned into steam as the water vapour heats.
White steam is usually not a cause for concern however it can lead to corrosion and rusting in the exhaust pipes if you only use your car for very short journeys and don’t allow the engine to heat up fully.
Blue Smoke
Blue smoke coming out of your car’s exhaust could mean that some of the engine oil has entered into the fuel system somewhere. It’s not uncommon for blue smoke to also have a burning smell, which is a tell-tale sign that there’s a problem that needs to be fixed.
Sometimes this will happen right after your car has been serviced, which is usually because too much oil has been put back into the system and the excess is simply being burnt off. If the smoke stops after a while, then you won’t need to take it to a garage to get checked.
In cars that have been heavily used, the seals around the valves and piston heads may have become worn down, allowing oil to seep into the fuel system. In this case, you’ll need to get all seals replaced, which can be a costly procedure.
Grey Smoke
Grey smoke coming from your engine could also be an indicator that there has been an oil leak somewhere. Alternatively, it could suggest that the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is defective or worn out as the purpose of this part is for emission control. Fortunately, repairing a PVC valve is a fairly straightforward procedure. If your car is an automatic, then grey smoke could be a sign that the transmission fluid has escaped into the engine via a leak, in which case, repairs are essential and usually quite costly.
Black Smoke
In a petrol car, black smoke indicates that too much fuel is being burnt which could be because the air filter needs replacing. It could also mean that the fuel injectors are blocked or the pressure regulator needs a clean, so to be sure that this has been properly examined it is best to take it to a garage.
In a diesel car, black smoke can be caused by a build up soot, which occurs when there is an excess of unburnt fuel. Diesel cars are fitted with a particulate filter in order to trap this soot however it is possible for deposits to build up gradually if you only use your car for short and slow journeys. Luckily, this can be dealt with without having to go to a garage; simply take your car onto a dual carriageway or motorway and accelerate up to 70mph which should help the air and fuel pass through the system faster. By doing this, you’ll help dislodge some of the soot and the warning light should disappear.
Thick white smoke
A large quantity of thick white/grey smoke coming from the tailpipe could be an indication that there is a leaking head gasket, which can lead to an overheated engine. Alternatively, heavy white smoke might mean that your car has a cracked block or cylinder head which both need to be seen to as a matter of urgency.
In any case that you are concerned about the emissions coming from your car, it is best to be safe and visit a garage for a mechanic to have a look. If you leave it too long, you could cause more damage to your car and rack up a huge bill for repairs so get it checked promptly.
Despite there being strict laws against drink driving in the UK and severe penalties for offenders for a number of years now, there are still far too many accidents on the roads caused by irresponsible drivers getting behind the wheel whilst intoxicated. In fact, one in eight of road deaths is caused by collisions related to drinking. One of the main reasons for such a high rate of drink driving could be the lack of clarity around what the laws actually are, in addition to the fact that the laws in Scotland are different to other parts of the UK. For many years there have been campaigns to reduce the legal limit further, with some campaigning for a zero-tolerance policy. Below, we outline the law as it stands today and tips about how you can stick to it.
What is the legal limit?
In England, Wales and Northern Ireland, the legal drinking limit is:
80mg of alcohol per 100ml of blood
35 micrograms per 100ml of breath
107mg per 100ml of urine
In Scotland, the legal drink-driving limit is
50mg of alcohol per 100ml of blood
22 micrograms of alcohol per 100ml of breath
What about units of alcohol?
Unfortunately, there isn’t a universal way to calculate the exact number of units that are safe to consume before driving. Generally speaking, one unit is around 10ml or 8g of alcohol however there are various factors that will also influence the person on the day. These can be your age, gender, weight, metabolism, the kind of alcohol, whether you have eaten and what, your energy/stress levels and your general tolerance of alcohol.
The safest way to avoid taking any unnecessary risks is to avoid drinking altogether; even a small amount of alcohol can slow down your reaction times and even impair your vision.
How long should you wait to drive after having a drink?
This is another difficult to measure question and there is no hard and fast rule. Some studies have found that one unit of alcohol takes approximately one hour to process, which means that a lager containing three units will take at least three hours to get out of your system although individual factors should still be taken into account.
This applies for driving the morning after a night of drinking. There is no guarantee that when you wake up you will be legally within the limits to drive and it can take the majority of the next day to get sober enough to do so.
What happens if you get caught drink driving and what are the penalties?
If the police believe you are driving under the influence, they will signal for you to pull over and request you to take a breath test using a device known as a breathalyser. You are legally obliged to take the test and if you refuse you could be arrested. The breathalyser will be able to bring up a result instantly and if you fail the test, i.e. you’re over the limit; you will be driven to the station for further testing.
The penalties for drink driving:
Offence
Fine
Imprisonment
Driving Ban
Being in charge of a vehicle while above the legal limit or unfit through
drink
Up to £2,500
3
months
Possible
Driving or attempting to drive while above the legal limit or unfit through
drink
Unlimited (at magistrate’s discretion)
6 months
At
least 1 year (3 years if convicted again within 10 years)
Refusing to provide a specimen of breath, blood or urine for analysis
Unlimited (at magistrate’s discretion)
6 months
At
least 1 year
Causing death by careless driving while under the influence of
drink
Unlimited (at magistrate’s discretion)
14 years
At
least 2 years PLUS extended driving test before your license is returned
Depending on the individual case, some magistrates will allow a reduction on the driving ban if you agree to take a drink driving rehabilitation course.
In addition to the penalties outlined above, a drink driving conviction could cause you further problems in obtaining car insurance; employment (particularly for jobs requiring driving) and you may have difficulty travelling abroad.
How to avoid drink driving
The simplest way to avoid drink driving is to just not do it. If you know you are planning to have a drink, arrange your transport home in advance.
Use public transport
Get a lift from a friend or family member
Book a taxi
If you have no other option but to drive, stick to non-alcoholic beverages.
If in any doubt about your ability to drive, do not get behind the wheel.
Deciding what kind of car you want to buy next is a big decision. With countless options available, it’s hard to know where to begin and as it’s a huge financial investment, you’ll want to choose wisely. A big part of the selection process is to work out whether your next car is going to be brand new, nearly new or second hand as this can have a huge influence on how much you pay, the kind of finance deals and warranties you’ll have access to amongst other factors. In this post we will outline the varying degrees of newness of cars, what each term means and what the advantages and disadvantages of each type are, to help you make a decision.
Made to order new
This is the newest kind of car you can get, whereby your car is yet to be made and will be built according to your exact preferences by the manufacturer.
Advantages:
The main obvious advantage of this is that your car is completely new and built exactly how you want it, down to the interior finishes, engine type, wheel trims and more.
You will receive a full manufacturer warranty with your car.
You won’t need to worry about any unknown history or former problems of the car.
Disadvantages:
Because your car is being made to exact specifications, there’s usually a long waiting time for it to be made so you won’t have access to your new car for a few months from initially placing your order.
Your car’s value will depreciate hugely, meaning that when you sell the car on, you won’t make all of your money back.
Brand New
A brand new car is one that has been made and is in storage somewhere but has yet to be registered.
Advantages:
You get the full manufacturer warranty
Your car is fully built, operational and ready to drive away so you won’t have to wait a long time to get it.
Modern cars are increasingly being made with fuel efficiency in mind as well as added safety features.
Disadvantages:
Your car is already made so you wouldn’t be able to design it to match your preferences.
The value of your car will take a huge hit once it is driven away from the showroom (usually around 20%!) so you’ll need to consider this if you are planning to sell it on in the future.
Often when a brand new car breaks down, electrical issues are to blame, which is something you’ll have to visit a garage to get repaired.
Nearly New
There are essentially two kinds of nearly new cars. The first is a brand new car that has been registered, with the dealership named, as its official owner.
The main advantage of a pre-registered nearly new car is that your car will still be brand new, but because it has been registered it will usually be more affordable than brand new, unregistered cars.
The disadvantages of this kind of nearly new car are that the manufacturer warranty will be much shorter, as it will have commenced on the date that it was initially registered by the dealer and not on the date that you buy it.
The second type of nearly new car is a vehicle that has been used but only minimally i.e. it is less than one year old and has been driven less than 10,000 miles.
The main advantage of this kind of nearly new car is that you’ll get a big discount on the price since the biggest depreciation of a car occurs within its first year of use. In addition, you’ll likely still have a chunk of the manufacturer’s warranty left over.
The disadvantages are that you’ll have to choose from what’s available so you won’t have much say over things like colour, engine specifications etc. There’s also the fact that somebody else has owned and used the car before you although for most people this is not a major drawback. You also won’t have the full warranty.
Part Exchanged New
Part Exchange is when you trade in your existing car to a dealer in return for some money off of a new one.
Advantages:
Passing over your car to a dealer in return for a new one makes the process of getting a new car much simpler and you won’t need to worry about the hassle of selling it on.
You’ll get a discount off a new car because you have given in your old one.
Disadvantages:
You might not get as much money off your new car as you would have had you sold your car separately.
Used
Used cars are simply ones that have been owned and used previously.
Advantages:
There is a massive variety of choice from a range of makes and models from previous years. Almost 8 million used cars are sold every year so you won’t be short on choice.
Used cars are significantly less expensive than new ones.
Disadvantages
Most used cars are unlikely to have any of their warranty left which means that you will have to pay for any repairs it may need.
The higher the mileage on a car, the more wear it will have endured making it more likely need repairs.
Older cars are usually less environmentally friendly because they are usually less fuel-efficient than new ones.
